Thursday, April 12, 2007

Eunny Sayz

"Hey, I just found this! It's great that there's a knitalong, though
I'm sorry to hear that people are having elasticity issues.
I have a couple things to note:

1) DO NOT SLIP THE FIRST STITCHES OF YOUR ROWS. Seriously. Bias fabric isn't terribly stretchy anyway, and over the whole circumference of the sock, this will severely limit how much lateral stretch the sock has (i.e., how easily it will pull over the heel). The directions specifically call for NOT slipping the first stitches of the rows, and the accompanying article notes this. It will help, I promise.

2) The sock is written with a classic short row heel because it fits seamlessly into the entrelac structure, and because I think it looks cool to have a heel that first into the surrounding blocks like a puzzle piece. You *could* knit a gusseted flap-style heel, but it would require increasing the size of the bottom three blocks leading up to it to act as the gussets.

3) If you have big calves (like me - there's no way I could have worn the socks pictured), you will want to add another set of increase rows. Basically, when the sock reaches to the point at which your calf begins to widen, work your first set of increase rows (7 stitch/14 row blocks). Halfway between there and the widest part of your calf, work another set of increase rows in the same way (8 stitch/16 row blocks). This will give you another inch and a half or so of calf circumference. I did this for the ones I'm knitting, and it's working great.

4) Swatch, swatch, swatch. If your sock is too tight, go up in needle size. If it's too big, go down. Add or remove a stitch and two rows to or from each block. Make little adjustments to fine tune the fit.

Happy Knitting!


bigevilgrape said...

I'm glad you posted the bit about the heel. I have been pondering weather or not that would work for a while now. I was a bit afraid that I would try it and it wouldn't work.

Thanks for your tips.

Lara said...

Great to get tips right from the source!